Surfing is not a real sport: it doesn't have scores, game-times or winners – it's a practice or simply something you do – there is nothing to achieve from it in a quantitative way. It's a process, like a relationship, that inevitably swells and changes, progresses and regresses without any apparent aim. The learning involved is not cumulative - if you can ride this giant it doesn't mean you will not be wiped out by the next one. Everything is constantly changing, and the lure lies in the ability to “adapt” fast enough, smartly enough to master yet another wave, get to know it sufficiently and then see it break on the shore.
-from L.A. Union Surfers by Catherine Borra